| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| Del |
Posted - Feb 04 2009 : 10:04:28
I fellow named Art asked me to upgrade his Obi-Wan Kenobi TPM to add sound. I figured I would chronical it here.
Below is a comparison to my Obi-Wan Kenobi Negotiator (top). They are pretty much identical.
Attached Image:
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| 18 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| Del |
Posted - Nov 19 2009 : 12:23:36
Art,
Did you mail the saber back for repair? I have not seen it yet!!!????
Thanks |
| Del |
Posted - Nov 07 2009 : 20:37:43
Art,
I did not get the email with the Steampunk saber pictures. Please send it to my email address or post the pictures here.
Thanks! |
| Del |
Posted - Nov 03 2009 : 08:52:55
Art,
This is how I charge the CR123s..
Attached Image:
I went to Walmart and got a couple of wooden thread bobs. Trimmed the wood lips off and inserted a metal screw down the middle. Some Gorilla glue to hold them in place. All done. |
| Del |
Posted - Oct 31 2009 : 13:58:15
OK, I am shipping the saber to you today.
You should get a notification from USPS. Shipping was $10 in a medium flat rate box.
Here is a pic of what your getting back...
Attached Image:
Note: The little blue thingy is the magnetic actuation tool. The magnetic switch is directly under the red control knob. |
| Del |
Posted - Oct 31 2009 : 00:11:03
UPDATED 10.31.2009
OK, this is the list of parts used for this project.
(1) Knurled / Anodized Control Knob $17
(1) Micro Reed Switch (normally open) $1
(1) 0.8 .5 watt high-performance speaker $8
(2) UltraFire CR123 Lithium Rechargeable Batteries 3.6V $6
(1) Charge for USB2.1 update from Ultra $4 (shipping)
(1) Blood, sweat, and tears $.50
(1) Smudge of Gorilla Glue $.02753
(16) Solder connections $.37405 each.
(8) Wire connections with super duper small wire. $.00000 (since I reused some I had already).
(25) Assorted Curse words spoken aloud during the project. $ Forever Damned in Hell!
(1) Shipping back to you $10
I think that's it. I'll check the shipping once I have it all boxed up and ready to go.. |
| Del |
Posted - Oct 28 2009 : 21:19:21
Well I see that Ultrasabers did absolutely nothing for the USB 2.0 issues with the 2.1 upgrade. A complete waste of time and money! I've been testing the saber to make sure everything works as it should. The reed switch response is plenty fast. But ever so often, the board will freeze up or shutdown completely when I try the lockup or shutdown. This requires the same stupid remove and reinsert of the batteries, just like before. This is a PITA with the Obi-Wan TPM saber since the Ultrafires are encased in a metal battery holder. You pretty much have to break the saber down to get to them. An internal momentary open switch would do the trick. But of course, I don't have one. There is not much room left to put anything else inside either.
Wish I had a CF to put in there... |
| Del |
Posted - Oct 28 2009 : 15:32:20
Update
Got the new speaker in and installed it. Re-assembled the saber with all the goodies and tested it. Worked nice with the magnetic reed switch. All that is left is to get some good epoxy and glue everything that requires glue. Mainly the speaker in this case. Had surgery on my hand last week to remove a suspicious growth and it's being a PITA.
Almost done with this project.. |
| Del |
Posted - Oct 25 2009 : 19:29:15
Quickie update...
The new speaker has been ordered along with some micro connectors. Should be here next week. |
| Del |
Posted - Oct 13 2009 : 11:49:18
Art, An update picture for you.
I hope you can see where I'm going with this.. Note: This was taken after I had tested and programmed the US2.1.
Attached Image:
The sound chamber will be smaller than I wanted but still about 1.5 inches. The soundboard platform is actually attached to the blade holder. The speaker will attach to the soundboard holder. All can be removed as one unit.
I still have to order a smaller speaker... |
| Del |
Posted - Oct 11 2009 : 23:04:38
More crap.... Ugh..
Got the reed switches in and everything is wired up. The reed switch works pretty good. I was able to program the US2.1 without much effort. But it's gonna be a tight fit for sure to get everything inside. I made a frame from aluminum filler rod. The ideal is that the soundboard, switch, and speaker will all be attached to the LED assembly. That way it can all be removed as a single unit. That makes for nice and short wiring to all components with 2 leads going to the battery pack.
OK here is the problem I'm encountering now. The 30mm speaker I purchased from TCSS is not going to work. It's just a hair too large to fit inside the inner sleeve. I'm afraid if I shave it down, then the speaker will separate during use and fail. So I started digging around the Internet looking at speakers. These are the contenders:
Ulrich Models carries several different speakers to choose from. They have a 25mm (1.0") speaker that may fit the bill.
http://www.ulrichmodels.biz/servlet/the-313/1.0%22-%2825mm%29-Round-Dream/Detail
It also has an enclosure that I will most likely order but not sure if I will use it. I'm not sure how loud these speakers are compared to TCSS versions. I've sent some emails out to the sellers to see what they have to say. More to follow.... |
| Del |
Posted - Oct 01 2009 : 21:46:30
Hi Art,
I heard your message on my voicemail. I'm actually out of town this week and checking in via the web. I'll be back home on Oct 6th.
Just an update. I could not bring myself to drill the hilt on your saber so I decided to try using a reed switch that will work for this project. The membrane switch vendor got wise to what I was doing and would not send me any more samples to try without an order.
This is one of the smallest reed switches you can get that has it's own mounting.
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Unfortunately I had to order 20 of the things to reach the $10 minimum order. Ugh... I searched high and low trying to find who makes these and could not. So I was stuck using this vendor. I'll sell the leftovers on eBay or use them in other projects.
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G1347
These should be delivered in a few days.
I'll give you a call when I return... |
| Del |
Posted - Sep 03 2009 : 15:31:02
Well I've been working on this project and ran into a snag. The metal shield that can be seen behind the hilt tube vents is just large enough to cause the speaker to not slide inside the tube. So when I insert the USB 2.0 board, there is not enough room to reassemble the saber. So I think I will trim the speaker housing slightly until it fits snugly inside the inner liner tube. This will mean that the sound chamber will be somewhat smaller than I wanted but should still be plenty.
I'll post pictures when I have more time.. |
| Del |
Posted - Aug 03 2009 : 18:22:04
Can't freaking believe it.. The control knob arrived today. I cannot say that I'm happy with it. The anodizing could have been done better.
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| Del |
Posted - Jul 25 2009 : 09:43:03
Update
I've been talking to a company that makes membrane tactile switches. They sent me a sample and I think I may be able to do something totally different. I have several questions pending a response from them.
As far as the control knob. Parks is milking that 8 week delivery thing for sure! Email below from 07.24.2009...
Quote:
Dear Del,
I just spoke with Jeff Parks and he said your order will ship next week.
We thank you for your email.
Don't forget to sign-up for updates and announcements from us:
http://www.parksabers.com/announcements.html
Kind regards,
Jean
http://www.parksabers.com
http://www.saberkit.com
http://graflexsabers.com
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| Del |
Posted - Jun 18 2009 : 09:09:47
I will be using 24AWG or 28AWG stranded wire for this project. It pretty small and easy to get into tight spaces.
I'm starting to reconsider the tactile switch idea, I may try a membrane switch instead if I cannot modify the control knob. I want the control knob to be nice and tight. |
| Del |
Posted - Jun 03 2009 : 15:22:00
I'm brainstorming on where to mount the tactile switch. I was thinking about putting in the center of the red control knob itself. I ordered a new red anodized control button from Parksabers.com ($18 with shipping). It would be cool to drill a pin hole in the control knob and have a small brass pin protrude from the control knob just enough that you can engage the tactile switch with your thumb. But the control knob would screw into the saber and be nice and tight. I want to do this with my Qui-Gon Jinn also. I hate how the control knob is used as the switch.
I think I can make the switch base from bondo. I'm going to play with it more once the control knob arrives..
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| Del |
Posted - Jun 03 2009 : 15:06:21
USB 2.1 boards are back in...YAY! Kinda upset that they didn't fix the primary problem that I sent them back for (switch bounce issue).
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| Del |
Posted - Feb 04 2009 : 10:08:36
Now it's time to gut the saber and see what needs to be done. I will be installing a UltraSound 2.1 board, speaker, and updated switch.
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The saber is well built and easy to disassemble. There is a small LED driver board that will not be reused. The original on/off switch will also be gone. The US2.1 uses a momentary tactile rather than a latching switch.
I'm hoping that I can re-use the switch position for the new tactile switch. It's gonna be interesting for sure to get it right.
I've already installed the battery holder into a more permanent position to create the sound chamber. I'm now getting creative on how to mount the speaker so it does not move. I need the US2.1 back so I can fit it properly. Hopefully UltraSabers won't take long getting the sound boards back to me.. |
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